Day 5 May 27
Searching for Pascual Abaj
We spent the previous night at the Pensión Chuguilá, a clean and cheerful colonial-style hotel. Early this morning, we stroll along cobblestone streets to see indígenas burning incense in front of the famous Santo Tomás church. (It was here that the original manuscript of the Popol Vuh, the Maya creation story, was discovered.) There is strong disapproval among these people of having their picture taken. So like naughty and anxious schoolchildren, the turistas sneak in a shot. |
Led by the conquistador Pedro de Alvarado, the juggernaut of European weapons and diseases
broke the heroic Maya resistance. The Spanish, whose religious zeal was
surpassed only by their lust for gold, forced Christianity on the native peoples.
Maya temples and sacred texts were destroyed, and Maya culture was violently suppressed.
However, Roberto's book Guatemala Guide (by Paul Glassman) mentions that some Maya in this region still venerate an "idol" called Pascual Abaj. The Guide gives only vague directions to get to the place of worship, so we are doubly intrigued. We hike to the outskirts of town and ask several people. Most are evasive or reluctant to talk. The old gods are not easily revealed to outsiders. Finally, we meet a boy who, for a small tip, offers to guide us to the place. An exhausting climb-- I am out of shape after a few years in small-town America-- up the pine-covered hillside brings us there. Pascual Abaj is a stone image about a yard tall. It blends both Christian and Maya religious elements. The "idol" is a crude carving of a human face on what looks like an undersized stela, but beside it lies a small stone cross (a religious symbol common to both cultures). Being a people with strong roots, the Maya simply assimilated aspects of the conqueror's religion while essentially retaining their ancient beliefs. Outwardly you can give the impression of complying with their demands... I know that some day, by force or deceit, they will make you worship what they worship. When that time comes, when you can no longer resist, do it in front of them, but on the other hand do not forget our ceremonies. And if they tell you to break your shrines, and force you to do so, reveal only what you have to, and keep the rest hidden, close to your hearts...
Manco Inca
When we reach the hilltop, we watch an indígena family devoutly burning copal incense to their god. They ignore our intrusion. Pascual Abaj (meaning "Sacrifice Stone" in Spanish/Maya) frequently receives offerings of incense, candles, food, alchohol, and occasionally, sacrificed chickens from pilgrims who may even come from far-away villages. The devotees pray that it grants favors such as a good harvest, a safe journey, the success of an enterprise, or recovery from a serious illness. The Maya of today worship numerous nature gods, much as their ancestors did at the height of their civilization more than a thousand years ago. Pascual Abaj probably derives from the old Quiché earth deity Huyup Tak'ah. |
A small stone religious image carved by present-day indígenas.
(This represents Cabahuil or "Heart of the Sky", one of the seven Maya
deities who helped in the creation of the universe.)
In her autobiography, Quiché Indian-rights activist Rigoberta Menchú gives a rich account of her people's beliefs and customs. As a child, her parents taught her to treat the earth as the mother, the great provider. She grew up revering her nahual, or spiritual protector and counterpart in the animal world. What outsiders see as primitive nature worship and animism is really, according to her, a profound respect for those to whom we owe our daily existence. The Maya world-view seeks harmony with, rather than dominance over, nature. It recognizes a universe that is everywhere alive, replete with gods and fantastical beings, but also forming an interconnected whole. Man is but a part of this cosmic organism on whose light, earth, air, and harvests he crucially depends. Despite often abrasive contact with the "modern world" and its technology, the present-day Maya cling to this traditional wisdom. Rightly so, they have no hint of shame when they worship the sun, moon, stars, and rocks in front of the computerized cameras of photo-hungry tourists. |
Could someone please get those TOURISTS out of that holy shrine! |
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